Food reviews and subjective guide to restaurants in Paris
The Yellow Pages list 15 497 restaurants in Paris. No need to say that you won’t go starving…
Personally, I’ve recently tried out all the addresses in this guide by passing them on the street, passed on by friends or discovered in those two bibles of “eating well” in Paris that are the Guide du Fooding and Figarocope. Google reviews can also be useful, unlike Instagram, which is often advertising in disguise.
To spot the right place, the greedy (and gourmet!) guy that I am, have made up a personal list that meets all our needs:
– good value for money. Places where you can dine for 20 to 30 EUR per head (main course + dessert + a glass of wine) with good home-made dishes. You won’t leave these places with an empty stomach.
– a nice atmosphere. For a couple of years, pseudo-design restaurants without personality have been mushrooming everywhere. There you can find sushi alongside coq au vin. This is why I am only suggesting full of charm and authentic places.
– a caring and welcoming service. The French waiters’ bad reputation is not a myth: coolness, indifference, way too long wait to order (or to pay!) and yet the staff always asks you whether you enjoyed your meal, without waiting for the answer…On very rare occasions, you can count on a warm smile and a little chat with the boss.
There’s no need to go there “on my behalf”: nobody knows me, and this guide is not a partnership with any of the restaurants listed.
One last detail: you need to book your table…
So ready, steady, eat!
The best couscous restaurants in Paris
People talk about “couscous”, but that’s an unfair shortcut for the delicious cuisine of North Africa: tajines, mechoui, pastilla, harira, briks, delicate pastries and much more must be added. Click here to go to the table!
THE BEST CREPERIES in Paris
If you had to choose a cheap, typically French dish that the whole family could enjoy, crêpes would certainly win the gold medal! So here’s my selection of the 10 best crêperies in Paris. And just to let you know: I’m a crepe chef myself!
The BEST ITALIAN RESTAURANTS AND PIZZERIAS IN PARIS
Thin or thick dough, tomato or crème fraîche base, baked in a traditional oven or wood-fired, there are a thousand ways to make pizzas in Paris. Here’s my selection of the best pizzas in Paris.
The BEST ASIAN RESTAURANTS IN PARIS
Whether Chinese, Thai, Vietnamese or Japanese, Asian restaurants are everywhere in Paris, and we don’t know where to turn! Fortunately, I’ve put together a list of the best Asian restaurants in Paris.
The BEST ICE CREAMS IN PARIS
Do you know something? We’re lucky in Paris. Over the past few years, French, Italian and Lebanese ice cream makers have been vying with each other to create the best ice creams in Paris.
OTHER SUPER RESTAURANTS (listed by arrondissement)
1ST DISTRICT
LE COCHON À L’OREILLE (France)
Imagine a roadstead as big as a handkerchief, picture a superb 1900 listed mosaic decor, imagine a few shining Orient Express- type of tables, imagine a traditional bistrot cuisine (onion soup, beef tartar, black pudding with apples, etc.) and a good wine list, picture a young boss who freshly graduated from HEC, and you get this lovely café located in the Halles district!
15 rue Montmartre, 75001 Paris, métro “Les Halles”, www.lecochonaloreille.com Photos album on www.flickr.com
BRASSERIE DUBILLOT (France)
La Nouvelle Garde is a group of Parisian brasseries dedicated to revitalizing the traditional art of French brasserie, while adding a contemporary touch. This movement, which identifies itself by its commitment to responsible cuisine and the defense of French culinary heritage (“Boire et manger à la française”), has notably opened the highly successful Brasserie Dubillot. I love it!
222 rue Saint-Denis, 75002 Paris, métro “Strasbourg Saint-Denis”, https://lanouvellegarde.com/fr/brasserie-dubillot
LIZA (Lebanon)
Very refined cuisine, classy decor, attentive service, everything is delicious. A must. I hear their brunch is a highlight…
14 rue de la Banque, 75002 Paris, métro “Bourse”, www.restaurant-liza.com
CALI SISTERS (USA)
The founders wanted to transpose the relaxed, sunny ambience of the American West Coast by creating a space where well-being and eclecticism are the order of the day. The décor is inspired by the bright, open spaces typical of Los Angeles, with bohemian gypsy touches, palm trees and a large glass roof, evoking the atmosphere of Venice Beach. The cuisine is both healthy and gourmet, offering colorful dishes full of flavor, perfect for lunch under the palm trees, weekend brunch or a relaxing dinner accompanied by a cool cocktail. Specialties include California-style meatballs, colorful shakshuka, fluffy pancakes, a very cheesy egg sandwich, and lemon zest cheesecake.
17 rue Notre Dame des Victoires, 75002 Paris, métro “Bourse”, www.thecalisisters.com
BIG FERNAND (USA)
You’re walking down the rue du Faubourg Poissonnière and a Frenchy-looking guy opens the door to his restaurant and says, “Come in! Venez vous régaler!”. That’s normal. You’ve arrived at Big Fernand, l’Atelier du Hamburger. Three mischievous friends have decided to revisit the famous sandwich the French way, with a focus on quality products: bread from an artisan baker, French meats (beef, veal, chicken, lamb) ground on the premises, good raw-milk cheeses (tomme de Savoie, raclette, fourme d’Ambert etc.), fries and homemade sauces. It’s really good, and I already know that the kids will love putting together their own made-to-measure burger (from 12 to 15 euros). Finally, if you happen to be near Châtelet, don’t miss Blend’s burgers! A much less friendly welcome than at Fernand’s, but even better!
– Big Fernand, 55 rue du Faubourg Poissonnière, 75009 Paris, metro “Bonne Nouvelle” or “Cadet”, www.bigfernand.com
– Blend, 44 rue d’Argout, 75002 Paris, metro “Les Halles”, www.blendhamburger.com
3RD DISTRICT
DERRIÈRE (Fusion cuisine)
Honestly, if I were to open a restaurant straight away here in Paris it would be one like the “Derriere”. The cosy décor is excellent, the place resembles a enormous flat, laid out ready to welcome friends. You can choose to eat on the terrace, in the bed in the bedroom, in the living room around the ping pong table or in the dining room. We went in a group so I was able to taste most of the dishes and I absolutely loved the “beef cheeks” and the lamb both served in their cocotte Staub. The desserts were expensive though and disappointing except for the chocolate mousse. Not to be missed: a trip to the smoking room, a secret room hidden in a… but shhhhh!!
69 rue des Gravilliers, 75003 Paris, metro “Arts et Métiers”, www.derriere-resto.com
MIZNON (Israel)
Eyal Shani is a strange man: a leading figure in new Israeli cuisine (he owns a gourmet restaurant in Tel Aviv), this self-taught chef opened Miznon in the Marais district of Paris. His specialty? A top-of-the-range version of the pita, topped with lamb with fresh herbs, spicy fish or… beef bourguignon. As a side dish, don’t miss the grilled cauliflower served whole with olive oil and coarse salt. The decor is raw and warm, with theater chairs and beat-up sofas for seating. Avoid rush hour, as the wait can be long and reservations are impossible. Finally, on the price side, some would say that 20 euros per person for street food isn’t cheap. Precisely because they’ve never been to Miznon…
22 rue des Ecouffes, 75003 Paris, metro “Saint-Paul” or “Hôtel de Ville”, www.miznonparis.com/fr
9TH DISTRICT
FLESH (Meats)
A lot of rotisseries and barbecues have opened in Paris in recent years. This address is no better than any other, but I have fond memories of their veal ribs.
25 rue de Douai, 75009 Paris, metro “Pigalle”, www.facebook.com/fleshrestaurant
10TH DISTRICT
MOMO HOUSE (Nepal)
Momos are steamed or fried ravioli typical of Nepalese cuisine. At Momo House, they’re just as good as the ones I devoured in Kathmandu!
46 rue Poissonnière, 75010 Paris, metro “Bonne Nouvelle”, https://momohouse.fr
NEW SOUL FOOD (Afro)
Mixed cuisine, an explosive blend of African and Caribbean flavors on charcoal.
177 quai de Valmy, 75010 Paris, metro “Louis Blanc”, www.newsoulfood.fr
NENI (Israel)
This is the restaurant of the 25 Hours hotel, a delicious, no-frills restaurant, just like a good dinner with friends.
12 bd de Denain, 75010 Paris, metro “Gare du Nord”, www.25hours-hotels.com/fr/restaurants-bars/paris/neni-paris
DISHNY (India)
A kitschy, messy Indian canteen just the way we like it. Everything is fresh, delicious and inexpensive. On your way out, I recommend spending a long time in the Indian supermarkets in front of the “La Chapelle” metro station. It’s incredible!
212 rue du Faubourg Saint-Denis, 75010 Paris, metro “La Chapelle”, https://dishny.fr
FAUBOURG DAIMANT (Vegetarian)
Sophisticated, well-presented vegetarian cuisine. The bar manager (Jorris) is exceptional. On the plate (that’s the main thing, isn’t it?), the taste buds get restless, but the portions are too small, even in tapas mode “you need 4 dishes, my good man”. Expect to pay €40-50 per person.
20 rue du Faubourg Poissonnière, 75010 Paris, metro “Bonne Nouvelle”, www.daimant.co/faubourg-daimant.html
CHEZ JULIEN (France)
I love Art Nouveau. I love the great Parisian brasseries. I love Chez Julien. A la carte, you should expect to pay 40-50 euros per person. But the menu is very reasonably priced (30 to 35 euros). Rather than talk about it at length, I suggest you take a look at their website www.bouillon-julien.com to get yourself in the mood…
16 rue du Faubourg Saint-Denis, 75010 Paris, metro “Strasbourg Saint-Denis”
11TH DISTRICT
PITA STREET FOOD (Mediterranean street food)
It’s all in the name! A counter and a few tables that don’t look like much in Bastille. Mediterranean flavors wrapped in pita bread, just 2 steps away on the banks of the canal.
34, rue de la Roquette, 75011 Paris, métro “Bastille”, http://pitastreetfood.fr
AVOCATERIA (100% avocado)
I was surprised to discover this restaurant concept in Tokyo, dedicated entirely to avocado. From starter to dessert? Yes, it’s possible! The dishes are beautifully presented and, frankly, Instagrammable. One regret? The drinks menu deserves to be expanded.
52 rue Basfroi, 75011 Paris, metro “Voltaire”, www.avocateria.fr
DELHI BAZAAR (India)
They describe themselves as a “modern Indian restaurant”. And it’s true! No kitsch decor, we’ve moved into the 21st century (designer wood and magazine mosaics). On the plate, the great classics of Indian cuisine are brilliantly revisited in tapas mode for sharing. The broccoli is a killer! You won’t know where to put your fork.
71 rue Sevran, 75011 Paris, metro “Rue Saint-Maur”, www.tandoor-club.com
SOYA (vegetarian)
Love at first sight for this vegan, organic and gluten-free canteen. Very fine flavors, it’s crazy to discover what you can do with vegetables! Very inexpensive lunch menu. I’ve read that their brunch is worth it…
20 Rue de la Pierre Levée, 75011 Paris, metro “République”, www.soya-cantine-bio.fr
UNICO (Argentine)
“Hi, I would like to book a table for tomorrow evening, please”. “Sorry, we are fully booked.” And for the day after tomorrow? “Sorry, but we are booked too”. Well, as you have realized, you will need to book in advance to enjoy the fantastic Argentinian meat in Unico. Located in an old butcher’s shop, you will adore Unico and its magic barbecue. The manager is particularly nice. He took the time out of a busy service to explain the origin and delivery of the South American meat.
15 rue Paul Bert, 75011 Paris, métro “Charonne” ou “Faidherbe – Chaligny”, www.resto-unico.com
BRASSERIE ROSIE (France)
This new-generation restaurant has been set up by young people full of ideas to recapture the codes of the brasseries of yesteryear and spice them up with a few contemporary ideas. On the plate we have eggs mayonnaise 4€, sausage-purée 12€ and crème brûlée 4€ and for the eyes a very cool decor.
53 rue du Faubourg Saint-Antoine, 75011 Paris, métro “Bastille”, https://brasseriesalamode.com
13TH DISTRICT
PERSILLÉ (Meat)
This is an unusual address: a butcher’s shop that doubles as a restaurant! You choose a piece of meat from the refrigerated display case, then it’s off to the kitchen. The staff give excellent advice, the meat is top-notch, the home fries delicious (the best in Paris) and the decor humorous. Last minute: the business has been sold and the new team is having a bad time on Google. So watch out…
66 rue du Chevaleret, 75013, metro “Grande Bibliothèque”, www.instagram.com/persillemdv
14TH DISTRICT
LA CANTINE DU TROQUET (France)
Christian Etchebest owns 4 establishments in Paris with the same recipe: top-quality products, no reservations, wide opening hours, great value for money. And don’t make fun of the Chinese: we eat pig’s ears here!
101 rue de l’Ouest, 75014 Paris, metro “Pernety”, www.lacantinedutroquet.com
PAPY AUX FOURNEAUX (France)
A modern table d’hôte where all dishes are for sharing.
70 rue de L’Ouest, 75014 Paris, metro “Pernety”, https://artichef.fr/papyauxfourneaux/
15TH ARRONDISSEMENT
LA CAVE DE L’OS A MOELLE (France)
THE table d’hôtes in Paris. 25 EUR buffet of grandma’s cuisine (blanquette de veau, brandade de morue, boudin, butter churn to share). Very convivial. Perfect for making new friends.
3 rue Vasco de Gama, 75015 Paris, metro “Lourmel”, /www.facebook.com/losamoelleetlacave
17TH DISTRICT
CORETTA (France)
Design decor, inventive cuisine, very well presented plates, oh so good! (but not very copious!!).
151 bis rue Cardinet, 75017 Paris, metro “Brochant”, www.restaurantcoretta.com
RURAL (France)
The Parisian restaurant of Michelin-starred chef Marc Veyrat (Savoyard): warm wooden décor with sheepskin seating, all-you-can-eat main course + desserts for 34 euros. I love it.
2 Pl de la Prte Maillot, 75017 Paris, metro “Porte Maillot”, www.rural-paris.com
BLOOM SUSHI (Vegetarian)
The most satisfying vegetarian experience I’ve had in years. Beautiful and good!
99 rue Jouffroy d’Abbans, 75017 Paris, metro “Wagram”, https://bloomsushi.fr
18TH DISTRICT
LE COQ & FIS (Rotisserie)
Certainly the best poultry in Paris. And it’s not just me saying it! A stone’s throw from Sacré-Cœur. Quite upmarket. A must!
98 rue Lepic, 75018 Paris, metro “Abesses”, https://lecoq-fils.com
BOULOM (France)
An all-you-can-eat buffet of scoundrel dishes! Discover it on their website. Reservations essential.
181 rue Ordener, 75018 Paris, www.boulom.net
HARDWARE SOCIETY (Australia)
Coffee shop ideally located rue Lamarck, a stone’s throw from Sacré-Coeur. Salads, risottos and inspired dishes, all carefully presented. Beware of certain prices (French toast at €13!) and busy weekends.
10 rue Lamarck, 75018 Paris, metro “Lamarck Caulaincourt”, https://hardwaresociete.com
RESTAURANT DU LYCÉE HÔTELIER BELLIARD (France)
The waiters here are all between 16 and 18, and outnumber the customers. Here, you are truly pampered, and the staff are delighted to serve you again. Finally, here you’ll find a gourmet lunch (3 courses + wine and coffee) at… €15, and dinner at €22! As you can see, this educational restaurant is unlike any other. From the checkroom to the maître d’hôtel, from the cook to the barman, everyone is in training. The rack of lamb is served but the cutlery is missing? The teacher kindly reprimands the culprit. The show is definitely on in the dining room, and it’s a pleasure to see young people smiling and refreshing. As for the plate, it was faultless. A job well done… and done again!
135 rue Belliard, 75018 Paris, metro Porte de Clignancourt, https://pia.ac-paris.fr/serail/jcms/s6_234575/fr/accueil
20TH DISTRICT
LE BARATIN (Wine bar)
A little shabby, far off the beaten track, booking compulsory, but what a reward! The food is more than perfect. And yet I know you’ll never go…
3 rue Jouye-Rouve, 75020 Paris, metro “Pyrénées”, 01 43 49 39 70
ABYSSINA (Ethiopia)
Certainly one of the capital’s best Ethiopian restaurants!
5 rue Martin Garat, 75020 Paris, metro “Porte de Bagnolet”, www.abyssinia.fr
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