The best Italian restaurants and pizzerias in Paris

Page translated with Google. Nobody’s perfect…

PIZZA IN PARIS, A LONG HISTORY…

In Paris, pizza has come a long way. Very far indeed. I remember the restaurants of the ’80s, with red and green neon lights, cold tiles on the floor, straw chairs and menus in 6 languages. Then, in 2006, the (now closed) Pink Flamingo pizzeria opened its doors and slapped everyone in the face: organic flour, local producers, pop decor, funny names (“Obama” pizza) and cool ingredients like figs. As an anecdote, when ordering, they handed out a pink balloon, which allowed them to meet up with customers on the banks of the nearby Canal Saint-Martin.
Parisians then realized that there was an alternative to the mediocre Pizza Hut and Pizza Pino franchises: they were ready to welcome the new wave of stylish (and above all Neapolitan) pizzerias that invaded the capital a few years later, led by “Big Mamma”. And they didn’t mind paying an average of €17 for their pizza!

THE BEST ITALIAN RESTAURANTS AND PIZZERIAS IN PARIS

IL BRIGANTE

“Il Brigante” translates into French as “Montmartre’s best pizzeria”. Nothing less. It’s a no-fuss affair: a handful of tables are arranged around the oven where Salvatore, the master of the house with the biblical beard, officiates. A menu of twelve pizzas and two desserts. That’s all there is. But it’s already too much… Old-fashioned, homemade dough that’s too crunchy, tasty ingredients imported directly from Salvatore’s home village in Calabria, and an atmosphere that’s too friendly. So, yes, you have to elbow your way to a seat, the charming service is a bit overworked and the corridor a bit drab, but that adds to the charm of the place. By the way, what’s all this about a brigand? I’ve no idea. Don’t hesitate to ask, you’ll be able to tell me…
14 rue du Ruisseau, 75018 Paris, 01 44 92 72 15, metro “Jules Joffrin”, www.ilbrigante.fr

BIG MAMMA

This is a French restaurant group created in 2015 that has bet everything on Italian gastronomy. The concept wasn’t crazy, but it arrived at the right time: warm, welcoming decor, dynamic atmosphere, generous, tasty dishes, traditional Italian cuisine with a modern twist. Servers recruited directly from Italy and weekly supplies direct from the boot add an extra touch of authenticity. The response has been immediate, with long queues forming for every service in front of the group’s establishments:
– La Felicita (75013, a hallucinating food court where you MUST drop in, with a patisserie in an old train carriage),
– Popolare (75002, specialized in fried foods, with a superb decor of alcohol bottles),
– Pink Mamma (75009, specialized in meats, don’t miss their remarkable hidden bar in the basement),
– Libertino (75010, rotating disco-bar in the basement!).
But also Big Love Café (75004, very central and convivial), Ober Mamma (75011) and Mamma Primi (75017, fresh pasta).
A first-time customer, I enjoyed their delicious Neapolitan pizzas with a huge, well-grilled crust at a bargain price and the tiramisu served directly from the dish. The group has since grown significantly, become internationalized, and the quality has unfortunately declined significantly. Also note: restaurants are often very large and unfortunately very noisy.
Addresses can be found on www.bigmammagroup.com
Reservations possible in certain restaurants, otherwise from experience you have to show up on Sunday evening at 10:00 p.m. to be almost certain to dine without queuing.

DORR GROUP

Shortly after the arrival of Big Mamma (see above), a young, opportunistic restaurateur decided to follow in their footsteps, transforming all the family-run “bistros” and “oyster bars” into Italian-style street food restaurants. Beyond simple inspiration, it’s even a carbon copy of certain decorative elements (the huge plastic wheels of Parmesan cheese, the large bottles of colored water), the humorously written menus and so on. Fortunately, there are a few new ideas, like the swing chairs, the heart-shaped pizzas and even a New York cab! As for the menu, it’s good, cheap, and always their “real margherita 7.9 € to go and 9.9 € if you sit”. The most central addresses are:
– Montmartre: The Little Italy, 5 place Clichy, 75017 Paris
– Le Marais: The Brooklyn Pizzeria, 33 bd Beaumarchais, 75003 Paris
– Montparnasse: Broadway Caffe, 112 bd du Montparnasse, 75014 Paris
www.broadwaycaffe.fr

   

PEPPE

In 2019 Peppe Cutraro, former Big Mamma chef, won the title of Best Contemporary Pizza in Naples in front of 180 candidates from all over the world. He subsequently opened three restaurants in Paris, where I enjoyed the best pizza dough of my life.
Peppe 20e, 2 place Saint-Blaise, 75020 Paris
Peppe Martyrs, 61 rue des Martyrs, 75009 Paris
Casa di Peppe, 222 rue Saint-Jacques 75005 Paris
www.peppeparis.fr

BUT ALSO :

– DA GIUSEPPE, thin dough cooked in an electric oven, “1er prix de la meilleure régina de Paris 2022”, really delicious but only 8 tables, 76 rue du Faubourg Poissonnière, 75010 Paris, https://dagiuseppe.fr
– TRIPLETTA, Neapolitan wood-fired pizzas, in Belleville (88 bd de Belleville, 75020 Paris), Montparnasse (1 impasse de la Gaité, 75014 Paris), Saint-Michel (2 bis rue de l’Arbalète, 75005 Paris) https://triplettapizza.com
– DALMATA, takeaway from trendy restau 8 Rue Tiquetonne, 75002 Paris (metro “Etienne Marcel”), for a seat go to Bastille chez “Giorgio” 21 rue de Charonne 75011 Paris (incredible toilets!)

NORMA (Sicily)

“Pasta alla NORMA is a Sicilian culinary specialty from the town of Catania. It’s a pasta dish cooked with a garlic tomato sauce, to which fried eggplant, salted ricotta and basil are added.” 14,50 €. Frankly, don’t leave Paris without trying it.
75 rue de Turbigo, 75003 Paris, www.normaparis.fr

AL CARATELLO

In 2000, Sri Lankan chef Seelan decided to open a restaurant in the heart of Montmartre to devote himself to what he knew best: Italian pasta! And he was right to do so, for every dish is cooked to perfection: macaroni all’arrabbiata, linguine with mussels, fusilli with truffle and asparagus cream, osso bucco and more. Surprising as it may seem, Al Caratello doesn’t feature in any tourist guidebook, which certainly explains why there are so many regulars. And if you hear English being spoken, it’s due to the excellent Trip Advisor reviews (for once!). As the portions are generous, I’d advise you to start with a plate of antipasti at 10 euros, followed by pasta (between 12 and 16 euros). For dessert, it’s up to you… FYI: I’d advise pizza lovers not to try the same owner’s pizzeria at number 8…
5 rue Audran, 75018 Paris, 01 42 62 24 23, metro “Abbesses” or “Blanche”, https://alcaratello.com/

RETURN TO MY SELECTION OF THE BEST RESTAURANTS IN PARIS and MY TOURIST GUIDE TO PARIS